Cured Ocean Trout
Choose a very fresh side of ocean trout and have the fishmonger skin and remove the bones, including the lateral pin bones. Trim away some of the fatty belly. Mix together the salt, sugar and lemon zest. Spread half on a plate or tray and lay the trout on top. Cover the trout with the rest of the cure. Wrap with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 hours. Remove from the cure at this time which will have dissolved into a brine. Rinse the trout well and pat dry. Reserve for later use.
Soak the gelatine sheets in iced water for 15 minutes until very soft and pliable. Finely chop the soft parts of the dill discarding the remainder. Bring the vermouth to the boil with the water. Leave to cool a little then add the apple juice. Squeeze the excess water from the gelatine and add it to the lemon liquor. Stir until translucent. Heat a little if required. Cool to room temperature and add the dill. Pour over a 15x20cm non-stick tray to a depth of 2 mm. Place on a level shelf in the refrigerator until set. This should take around 1 hour. This stage can be completed ahead of time. When set cut into 6 rectangles 5cm x 12cm. Reserve for later use.
This part of the process needs to be done just prior to serving so that the components do not oxidise. Use a very sharp Japanese mandoline with the fine julienne blade. Julienne the apple and radish. Use a very sharp knife to cut the cabbage and nasturtium leaves into very fine julienne. Mix together and reserve.
Place the eggs in a small saucepan. Bring to a simmer for 4 minutes. Refresh immediately. Place the butter in a small sauce pan and bring to the boil. Skim the white foam and discard. Cook the butter until a hazelnut colour- “beurre noisette”. Scoop the eggs into a small heavy mixing bowl with the mustard, a pinch of salt and a grind of fresh white pepper. Proceed as for a mayonnaise adding the clarified butter in a thin steady stream while whisking. A thick emulsion should ensue. Add the sherry vinegar to taste and correct the seasoning. Warm the cream and whisk in to achieve a pouring consistency.
Slice 6 x 1.5cm slices of trout. Divide the coleslaw evenly over 6 plates. Spoon a little emulsion over each pile of coleslaw. Place a slice of trout on top and then spoon a heaped tsp of ocean trout roe along each trout. Place a slice of jelly on top of each and serve.
Recipes by Mark Best, Marque Restaurant. Photography by Stuart Scott